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Week 11, 9th – 15th July, Hatherleigh
to Ponsanooth 86 Miles
Day 72 Mon 9 July
Hatherleigh- Launceston (Lifton)
The final full week started as normal, with an early breakfast.
I brought Marv in and put him in a stable as it was still
raining and the skies had no intention of lightening up. I
tacked Marv up under cover and we headed off towards Lifton
with a large packed lunch and in full waterproofs. Sue kindly
took my week 10 diary and photo memory card to the post office
for sending back to Edinburgh. Marv and I walked through the
picturesque Hatherleigh ‘town’ stopping at the
Co-op for the days snacks. A little later we stopped again
at a fantastic village pub in Bratton Clovelly, where I peeled
off the waterproofs and stopped for a soft drink. Two friendly
fishermen from Birmingham generously donated money there.
Crossing the A30 we stopped briefly to meet some ponies in
a nearby field. It transpired that one was a stallion pony
and was going crazy, chasing the other one all round the field
if it came near Marv! We quickly moved on. We arrived in Lifton
at 1600, after using a very wet bridleway. No mobile signal
here – and I hadn’t confirmed the location of
the riding school I was meant to be staying at. Finally I
found a spot for a quick call for directions – unfortunately
it was 2 miles away near Launceston. It was my fault for not
plotting it sooner. Marv was as peeved as me, as we had both
expected to be finished in Lifton. We travelled on and crossed
the swollen River Tamar and into Cornwall! Yes, the last county
reached finally. We found St Leonard’s Equestrian Centre
opposite Launceston Rugby Club. We were met by Abbie, who
was in charge of the stables while the owner Andy was away
on holiday. Marv had a stable overlooking the outdoor school,
so would have a good nights rest out of the rain. I was very
kindly offered a holiday cottage for the night, so also had
a dry night.
Day 73 Tue 10 July
Launceston-St Cleer
Breakfast was a round of bacon rolls and cereal bought at
the Spar the night before. The previous night was a particularly
wet one, and as the showers hadn’t subsided and so I
tacked him up under cover. There were intermittent showers
for the first 2 hours, but then it brightened up. So far I
have had very little use of my waterproofs despite the amount
of rain falling on the UK. We seem to be just missing the
deluges! The morning involved going through the lovely villages
of Lezant, Trebullett and Rilla Mill. There were very high
hedges along the lanes and so the views were limited. Also
the gradients were starting to become cheeky again –
reminiscent of the Peak district – all up and down.
We had a big climb up through Upton Cross to Minions on the
edge of Bodmin Moor. We had a quick stop at the PO for snacks
and photos. Waterproofs were then donned again to cross the
moor. Marv got quite interested in all the wild horses and
ponies that were grazing on the moor. I would have liked to
stay longer for him to be able to socialise more, but the
rain and the fact that we were nearly there made us press
on. We found a convenient bridleway shortcut into the village
of St Cleer (on the hill). I found The Stag pub and was met
by the hospitable landlord Bob. He had managed to secure the
use of the field behind, from one of his regular drinkers
Pete Wilton. So Marv had plenty of grass to munch on. I had
the use of a corrugated iron hay barn in the field. Bob very
kindly allowed me a shower to freshen up and an evening meal
on the house before I retired early to my hay loft. I chose
the top of the bales to sleep as they seem to be the flattest
and best stacked area to sleep on. However my bed was only
2x2 square bales wide and there was a drop right next to me
of 5 bales high. I decided to bungee myself to the barn so
I didn’t roll over in the night in my sleeping bag,
and find myself head planted down by the door. Marv came wandering
in later just to see where I was sleeping.
Day 74 Wed 11 July
St Cleer-Bugle
I had a lie in till 0800 and woke to find Marv fast asleep
in the deep grass outside the barn. I packed up my gear on
the bales and as soon I was ready, Marv appeared and waited
patiently while I loaded on all the gear. He has certainly
got the rhythm of the routine down to a tee. I called in at
the local stores for some milk and had my cereal for breakfast
in a grassy layby off a tiny lane. Marv munched grass happily
throughout. Little did I know this was the last shop of the
day! Through the village of Mount, with yet more contour crossing
up and down. Crossed the busy A38 near Bodmin, and then found
my reserve Mars bar deep in a saddle bag. Getting seriously
hungry I resorted to dry Crunchy Nut cornflakes, which helped
for a while. I then took a slightly longer but more scenic
forest track to keep of the busy B-road I had planned to take.
Marv met more of his 4 legged friends in the form of a field
of small black ponies, who couldn’t get enough of the
big boy. I also cut through a National Trust property - Lanbydrock
House, but came unstuck at the far gate, which was too narrow
for Marv and all his saddlebags. Having learnt the hard way
over the previous weeks that if in doubt, I should stop and
remove all bags/saddle etc, I finally put my experience into
practice to get past this obstacle. Once on the other side,
it was a quick re-fit of kit and off again. The sun was out,
so I decided it was safe to try for some sun on my back, as
the lanes were quiet. On the approach to Bugle I got specific
instructions to the house/field from Barry who had kindly
offered a field for the night. I passed a whole lot of caravans
– for thousands of Europeans working locally. I could
see the start of a huge open cast quarrying facility, which
was visible for miles and dominated the whole area. Arriving
in Bugle I was very hungry and so popped into the Spar for
a triple pack of sandwiches and something for Marv. I found
Barry’s house at the end of a cul-de-sac near the railway
line. Marv had another great field, this time sharing it with
a tethered goat. Barry kindly offered me his spare annex which
had bed/shower and toilet. No need for the bivi tonight. After
a nap to recharge the batteries I took a short stroll to the
local pub and had a nice meal of mussels in a very cordial
atmosphere. I turned down the offer of the local pub quiz
and headed back to the annex via the Spar for some breakfast
items. I checked on Marv, who was being strangely competitive
with the goat, and forcing the goat to stay in his little
shed. I told off Marv for being stroppy, as it was the goat’s
field after all. The two of them then ate peacefully together
after that, as I could see them from the annex window. Very
sore legs today and can’t wait to get to the finish.
Day 75 Thur 12 July
Bugle-Trispen
The weather was misty and cool today. Marv was at peace with
the goat when I went to get him. Packed up and put the key
for the annex through the window, as Barry had left for work
already. We left Bugle and passed the China clay workings.
It was pleasant walking in the cool mist, although visibility
was not ideal and I was concerned about safety on the road
with cars/lorries etc. We passed Roche and into Nanpean. We
stopped at PO for some bland sandwiches and carrots for the
boy. Then we continued down lanes to the outskirts of St Stephen,
with even more up/down into Ladock. We had to turn round and
retrace our route as a set of pedestrian gates prevented Marv
getting through (20 min detour round village!). Final set
of more up/downs before reaching the outskirts of Trispen
and Trevispian Vean Farm. Here Ernie Diamond had kindly offered
Marv a stable. This was to be an interesting night for both
of us. The farm was actually a massive pig farm. Marv was
stables next to at least 200 pigs. He could both see them
from one window and smell them. There was a livery yard at
the farm, but those horses had obviously got used to the pigs.
I put down some straw and hay, but Marv wasn’t interested.
He just kept on snorting and standing at the furthest side
of his box away from the squealing noises. I then found he
had a loose rear shoe – I had rather hoped he would
make the finish on the shoes he had on, but not to be. I rang
a kind lady called Chris from nearby St Newlyn East, who we
almost stayed with before I straightened my route. Within
10minutes we had a farrier organised for the next morning
at 1000. Chris herself arrived later with a friend to say
hi to Marv and drop off some money she had kindly collected
for the charities. I walked up to the pub at 1900 for a quick
feed and catch up on the papers. I then returned to the farm
for the night – sleeping on top of some loose hay outside
Marv’s stable. Marv still hadn’t settled and so
I got up at midnight to reduce the size of his window by 2
slats as I thought he was considering jumping out and escaping
the pig farm altogether. He finally calmed down and we both
got some rest.
Day 76 Fri 13 July
Trispen – Ponsanooth
After a stressful night for both of us I packed up our gear
and awaited the farrier. Fri 13th had already had an impact.
Marv had had diarrhoea due to stress and mucking him out wasn’t
so much fun. We had a few well-wishing visits from Ernie,
his son Nick and Nick’s wife (all of whom gave generous
donations). Stephen Long the farrier arrived slightly early
and we took the tense Marv up to the hay barn to try re-shoeing
him. Stephen used to be a race jockey and now trained point
to pointers as well as being a farrier. He could see Marv
had trouble standing and was exceptionally patient in re-shoeing
him. He did both new rear shoes and put his fee towards the
charities (£30) – very considerate man. We left
before 1100 and walked through the village before crossing
the A39 and off again down the quiet country lanes. Fiona
was flying down to Exeter today landing at 1100. She was driving
over to spend the last rest weekend with me. I was keen therefore
to get a move on and try and make up time for the necessary
shoe-stop. We took a long track through a wood on the outskirts
of Truro and I utilised Marv’s nervous energy to run
a great part of it. Reaching the outskirts of Britain’s
most southerly city, I was now getting rather hungry again
– having bypassed Trispen’s shop as it was 500m
off my route. Tension was building once again, as I headed
into the city centre. Fiona was near in her hire car, I was
hungry and it was starting to pour with rain. I managed to
get a bacon roll in the pedestrian area and also a baguette
(on the house) in a deli on the way out of the city. I did
get a photo of Marv and I in front of the Cathedral in passing.
It was full waterproofs on and up and out of Truro, never
really appreciating the place. The rain was lashing down and
Fiona was temporarily geographically challenged, so I just
headed SW and left her to find her own way to Marv and me.
It was an hour later, (although she would dispute this) in
the romantic setting of a shell petrol station forecourt in
the rain that we met up. Amazingly, the rain then stopped
and after a quick chat and more food for Marv and me, the
boy and I headed off for the last short leg to Ponsanooth
and well earned rest weekend. I was met in Ponsanooth by Fi
and Pam’s dog Jazz, walking the last few hundred metres
in together. Marv got a nice field next to Pam’s other
horses; George, Willow and Lady. Freya, Pam’s daughter,
helped settle Marv in and get him a feed. Once he was happy,
we both then went back to the Stag Inn where we were to be
based for the weekend. We ventured out to nearby Devoran for
a meal before heading back for an early night.
Day 77 Sat 14 July
Rest day
After breakfast Fi and I went off to explore nearby Falmouth
before meeting up with Giles and Ruth for lunch on the local
beach there. We walked their dogs along the coastal path before
returning to Pam’s to see how Marv was coping with his
time off. Marv had caught his chest with his shoe trying to
fend off flies no doubt - and had nicked himself slightly.
Giles (Army doctor) and I administered some hibiscrub and
iodine. Fi and I then explored the Lizard Point before having
dinner in Helston.
Day 78 Sun 15 July
Rest day
We had lunch today at Victoria on the A30, as Fi had a return
flight to Edinburgh at 1800 and Mum and Ken were arriving
into Newquay at 1300. After a quick ‘handover’
lunch, Fi left and I went with M&K to a B&B near St
Ives, where we would be based for the last 3 days.
Day 79 Mon 16 July
Ponsanooth- Godolphin Cross
I had planned the last three days of the trip (week 12) to
be short days, lest anything go wrong previously it would
give me some mileage slack to play with. Fortunately, all
went to plan, and I was to finish on a 12, 12 and 10mile days.
Much more civilised than the 20miles we had done on many of
the preceding days. With this in mind there was no rush to
start the day, so we stopped off at the local Stitians show
(largest one day agricultural show in the country). There
were fields of cars parked all round, which was quite weird
seeing as we were in such a rurally remote part of deepest
Cornwall. I went to the equestrian area and bought some travel
boots and bandage for the return journey. We then sat and
watched some show jumping before heading over to Pam’s
and getting Marv ready for that day’s miles. Pam and
family were just saying their goodbyes to Marv as they were
off to the show too. Marv and I set off up the lanes bypassing
Stitians now, and going through the villages of Carnkie and
Porkellis. I met Mum and Ken near Releath and we all walked
in together. Ken was leading Marv for much of the remaining
miles and had to contend with his incessant verge diving!
We met Helen at the pub in Godolphin Cross. I was a little
disappointed to learn the field was 1 mile away, very near
where we had just walked in from. I suppose it was my fault
for not clarifying the field’s location in advance.
Pam, the field’s owner drove us round to the next village
to show us where to put Marv. She had a hay net and evening
feed for him. Marv also had her horse for company that night,
and about a hundred rabbits who were helping keep the grass
short. After making sure Marv was ok, we drove back to the
Godolphin Arms for a quick pint, before heading back to the
Foresters near St Ives for a shower and then nipping into
Penzance for a recce for tomorrow and some food.
Day 80 Tue 17 July
Godolphin Cross – Newlyn
Not long left now, and the weather has still been kind to
us both. After breakfast, we drove to Godolphin Cross and
made ready for our penultimate day’s travel. We went
up and over Godolphin Hill and down the lanes towards the
elusive coast. I still had only seen the sea at the start
and when I crossed over the Forth Road Bridge. Now with 2
days to go, I was keen to glimpse it once again. We went through
Goldsithney then into beautiful Marazion. Here I saw the sea
at last, and what a sight! St Michaels Mount was the first
thing I saw, an amazing church on an island just offshore.
I then decided that I would take the beach to reach Penzance
(4km distant). We had a few false starts as I ducked down
hopeful alleys only to find a cul-de-sac for horses, but a
great view of the St Michaels Mount. Marv pumped out a few
horse droppings, as he was nervous about the sea. We eventually
made our way down to the beach, and Marv was on his toes.
The wind had got up, there were loads of kite surfers and
maybe he hadn’t been on a beach before. I got a friendly
chap to take some photos before jumping up and getting a good
canter down towards Penzance. It actually started to rain
whilst cantering, but the moment couldn’t be spoilt
be the weather. I was nearly there and we were cantering down
a Cornish beach. I was emotionally charged. What a great way
to bring this adventure to a close. We met Mum and Ken at
the end of the beach for some lunch. Mum went off to take
the hire car to the just-organised last field. Ken and I walked
Marv into Penzance along the cycle way. We passed the end
of the line for British Rail, Penzance station. Then we walked
through a car park and past the harbour. There were many photo
stops as I sensed the finish and the finality of the trip.
Along the front we strode, past the huge open air salt water
swimming pool and into adjoining Newlyn. We climbed up the
steep hill and into the amazingly discreet village of Tredavoe.
Marv’s last field was a cracker, fantastic views and
2 other horses for company nearby, along with plenty of good
grass. We headed back to St Ives as Pete (a very good school
friend) had arrived from Shropshire with his 4x4 and trailer
for the long slog back up to Edinburgh. Pete and I headed
off for the afternoon into sunny St Ives for a mooch around,
and Ken drove down to Land’s End to recce the last few
miles. We all headed out later back into Marazion for a wonderful
last supper over looking St Michael’s Mount, which was
very poignant to me.
Day 81 Wed 18 July
Newlyn to Land’s End
I was up for breakfast at 0815, with the finish team of Pete,
Mum and Ken (M&K), and am starting to feel a little apprehensive
about the end. We drove the short distance to Tredavoe and
Marv,as usual trotted over to the gate, ready for the last
leg. After putting on the gear, I rode off on Marv up a muddy
bridlepath. The other 3 headed for the finish to drop Pete’s
4x4 and trailer off. We did a little cross country through
some farmers’ fields to get back on roads and head toward
the next RV of St Buryan. I took Marv over a disused cattle
grid which had been partly filled up with mud. He did well
and walked over calmly. I met the team in the village, where
I dived into the local store for finish food for Marv, all
his usual favourites. Pete stayed with me, and Mum and Ken
headed for the finish to welcome us in. Pete and I enjoyed
the last 90 minute or so, and then we hit the A30 and walked
through Sennen. I climbed on board, determined to finish how
I started 11 and a half weeks previously. As we approached
the Land’s End complex, all the tourists started clapping
and saying well done. We had been introduced over the PA system,
so they all knew what we were up to. Jeff, the ILPH field
officer for the SW was there with his wife, as was Pam from
Ponsanooth, Freya and family. It was a fantastic ending to
a long trip and Marv and I both revelled in the occasion.
The sun was out, blue sky and glistening sea as a backdrop,
as Ken proposed a toast to us and Fi, Maisie and Mark who
couldn’t be there. I have to admit I did shed a tear
at this point, as the emotions of the moment got the better
of me for an instant. There were the finish photos both with
M&K’s banner and the official photo by the sign,
before enjoying a glass of chilled champagne and just taking
in the moment. Pete took charge of the happy Marv, feeding
him constant mints and treats, while we had a young girl pose
on his back and Freya sat on him for 10mins prior to departure.
At 1500 we headed for the car park, and Marv took a little
encouragement to get on the trailer. Maybe he didn’t
want to finish! Surely his legs are in need of a rest as much
as mine? I said goodbye to M&K, and Pete and I headed
out on the A30 for Exeter, our destination for tonight. We
reached Budleigh Salterton Riding School, home of Rob, a fellow
ex-King’s Troop Officer and his wife Chrissie. Marv
had a decent box for the night and we had a large chip supper
and reminisced the night away.
Thurs 19th July
Exeter to Penrith
Up early, we headed back to the yard. After mucking out Marv
we eventually loaded him again for the next leg home. We said
goodbye to Rob and his attractive stable staff, and headed
for the M5 and the prospect of a queue from a previous accident.
The delay wasn’t too bad and we reached Penrith in 7
hours with Pete doing all the driving, despite me constantly
offering. We were to be staying with an old university friend
of mine - James. He had just moved out to a new house in Newbiggin.
He met us and showed us a local field he had organised for
the night. Marv would have 130 chickens for company, as well
as another horse over the hedge. Pete, James and I returned
to his new place, and sampled James’ new purchase –
a £350 inflatable hot tub in the garden. Ideal at the
end of a long journey! James had just previously returned
from having climbed Everest, so gave us a powerpoint presentation
prior to nipping out for food.
Fri 20th July
Penrith to Edinburgh
We left James at 0900, and made great time up into Scotland,
arriving back at Edinburgh just after 1200. Marv was still
in a huff due to the necessity of travel; to the extent of
refusing mints and apples! We showed him his field, and I
believe he remembered it from the 4 days he spent there on
route south. Pete and I were both very happy we had delivered
the boy safely home after a monster trip for Marv both going
south and returning north. We could now rest easy and relax
– Marv was back.
Sat 21st and Sun 22nd July
Edinburgh
On Saturday we visited Marv, and he had thrown off his grump
and now accepted snacks. On Sunday when I visited him with
Maisie, he was lying down. We went over and I sat with him.
He stayed lying down, whilst I fed him some carrots. He nuzzled
for some more, alas no more. Marv was back to normal, and
so relaxed. It was a fitting end to an incredible journey
for the both of us
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